![]() But a thick, center-cut filet from the wide end of the fish near the head is much better. We used the cod-in-a-box because we wanted to be sure the recipe would still be tasty with what might be the only salt cod available to readers. You still have to soak salt cod overnight (or run it under cold water for 5 or 6 hours), but you’d do the same with good beans, right? With a food processor you can skip the heavy lifting–the pounding.īuy the best salt cod you can find. Unlike pesto, which many purists still muscle out in a mortar and pestle, brandade today is made in food processors. Once upon a time brandade was made by soaking and cooking salt cod, pounding it with shallots in a giant mortar, then gradually incorporating oil into the mixture, à la mayonaise or pesto. It’s a standard in our house–we eat it by special request (birthdays), on Christmas Eve, and whenever somebody says, Gee, it’s been awhile since we’ve had brandade. Successful marriages have been based on less. It has a rich satisfying flavor without being overwhelming, a great texture, and is terrific with uncomplicated red wines. Brandade is what the French, who love adding cream and shallots to everything just to see if anyone’s heart explodes, is what happens when the children of Gaul get their mitts on some morue (salt cod). I like fresh cod, but I LOVE salt cod, especially like this: Brandade de Morue with Olives, Peppers and Arugula.
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